How to save seeds
Please visit the Below web sites great information on them...
I n t e r n a t i o n a l S e e d S a v i n g I n s t i t u t e
saving seeds, seed-saving education and permacultureinformation from http://www.seedsave.org/issi/904/beginner.html
These vegetables offer the beginning seed saver the best chance for successful seed saving. They produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of preventing cross-pollination.Bean - Phaseolus vulgaris
PLANT: Although, ideally, different varieties should be separated by 150 feet or another crop flowering at the same time, we rarely observe cross-pollination even when two varieties are grown next to each other.
FLOWER: Beans produce perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Cross pollination by insects is possible but rare as pollination occurs before the flower opens. Because the anthers are pushed up against the stigma, automatic pollination is assured when the anthers open.
SELECTION TRAITS: Most commercial breeders favor bush varieties which can be mechanically harvested and fibrous bean pods which hold up during harvest and shipment. Pole varieties are more suited to small, home gardens because they produce more beans in a smaller space. Because vines are off the ground beans are easier to pick and away from the settling cold air of unexpected frosts. Plant growth: Pole type growth, D; Bush, r. Pod edibility: Little or no fiber, r; Stringless, r . Seed color: White seeded varieties are better for canning because seed color doesn't affect canning liquid, r; Colored, D.Pod, foliage and flower color: Purple, D.
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about six weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.
PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Lettuce - Lactuca sativa
PLANT: Separate varieties flowering at the same time by at least 20 feet to ensure purity.
FLOWER: Lettuce produces perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Each flower produces one seed. Flowers are grouped in little heads of 10-25 flowers all of which open at once for as little as 30 minutes. Anthers are fused together into a little cone that completely surrounds stigma and style. Style is pushed up through anther cone and is coated with its own pollen. Note: Mature head lettuce may need a slit (two or three inches deep) across the top to encourage flowering.
SELECTION TRAITS: Leaf color: red, D. Leaf color is controlled by at least two genes with a number of variations possible. Generally, hybrids produced by crossing red and green varieties result in red offspring. Leaf shape: no lobes, D; oak leaved, r. Seed stalk formation: bolt resistance, r;
Seed color: white seeds, r; black seeds, D.
HARVEST: Some outside leaves can be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Allow seed heads to dry 2-3 weeks after flowering. Individual heads will ripen at different times making the harvest of large amounts of seed at one time nearly impossible. Wait until half the flowers on each plant has gone to seed. Cut entire top of plant and allow to dry upside down in an open paper bag.
PROCESS: Small amounts of seed can be shaken daily from individual flowering heads. Rub with hands to remove remaining seeds. If necessary, separate seeds from chaff with screens.
Peas - Pisum sativum
PLANT: Ideally, different varieties need to be separated 50 feet or with another crop flowering at the same time. However, in the cool regions of the Rocky Moun tains, we rarely observe cross-pollination even when two varieties are grown next to each other.
FLOWER: Peas produce perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Cross-pollination by insects is possible but rare because pollination occurs before the flower opens. Because the stigma does open before pollen is ready crosses theoretically could occur.
SELECTION TRAITS: Most commercial breeders prefer bush varieties with pods that ripen simultaneously in order to facilitate commercial harvesting. Tall varieties produce more peas in small, home gardens.Plant Growth : tall, D; bush, r. Seed Shape: Round seeds germinate better in cold weather, D; w rinkled seeds, r. Pod Edibility: lack of fibers on the inside of the pod, r. Pod shape: round, D; flat, r.
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about four weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.
PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Pepper - Capsicum annuum
PLANT: Most home gardeners will get satisfactory results if different varieties are separated by 50 feet and another tall, flowering crop. New studies from New Mexico State University show more crossing than was previously thought. We recommend at least 400 feet between varieties to ensure absolute purity.
FLOWER: Peppers produce perfect, mostly self-pollinating flowers. Solitary bees will pollinate if a more desirable pollen is not available in the area.
SELECTION TRAITS: Flavor: Hot, D
HARVEST: Harvest mature, fully-ripe peppers for seed. (Most bell peppers turn red when fully mature.) If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature.
PROCESS: There are two methods, dry and wet, to process pepper seeds. The dry method is adequate for small amounts. Cut the bottom off the fruit and carefully reach in to strip the seeds surrounding central cone. In many cases, seeds need no further cleaning. To process the seed from large amounts of peppers, cut off the tops just under the stem, fill a blender with peppers and water and carefully blend until good seeds are separated and sink to bottom. Pepper debris and immature seeds will float to the top where they can be rinsed away. Spread clean seeds on paper towel and dry in cool location until seed is dry enough to break when folded.
Tomato - Lycopersicon esculentum
PLANT: Separate varieties with short styles (most modern varieties) by at least 10 feet. Varieties with long styles (heirlooms and older varieties) need at least 100 feet to ensure purity. If solitary bees are prevalent, separate all varieties at least 100 feet and place another flowering crop between.
FLOWER: Tomatoes produce perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Anthers are fused together into a little cone that rarely opens until pollen has been shed and the stigma pollinated. (Older varieties with wild tomatoes or L. pimpinellifolium in their genetic ancestry may have stigmas that stick out beyond the cone containing the anthers. Varieties with this trait can be identified by looking closely at mature flowers and need to be treated accordingly.)
SELECTION TRAITS: Tomato is the most popular vegetable in America and hundreds of the genes have been mapped. Those of immediate importance for home gardeners include: Plant size: Determinate varieties, r; b ush varieties, r; dwarf varieties, r. Leaf Shape : Potato-type leaves, r. Disease resistance : Leaf mold resistance, r; fusarium wilt, race 1 and race 2, D; verticillium wilt, D; alternaria, D; tobacco mosaic, D; nematodes, D. Ripening : prevents green shoulders, r; prevents ripening and is found in Longkeeper, r; produces parthenocarpic fruits which do not need to be pollinated. Tomatoes without seeds can be produced in weather too-cold for pollination to take place, r. Fruit color - produced by the combination of flesh and skin colors:
red: pink flesh, r covered by a yellow skin, r
pink: pink flesh, r and colorless skin, r
crimson: bright, purplish-red flesh, r and yellow skin, r
purple: bright, purplish-red flesh, r and colorless skin, r;
yellow: yellowish flesh, r and yellow skin, r
white: yellowish flesh, r and colorless skin, r
orange: reddish-orange flesh, D and yellow skin, r
HARVEST: If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production. Unripe fruits, saved from the first frost, will ripen slowly if kept in a cool, dry location. Seeds from green, unripe fruits will be most viable if extracted after allowing the fruits to turn color.
PROCESS: Cut the tomato into halves at its equator, opening the vertical cavities that contain the seeds. Gently squeeze out from the cavities the jelly-like substance that contains the seeds. If done carefully, the tomato itself can still be eaten or saved for canning, sun-drying or dehydrating.
Place the jelly and seeds into a small jar or glass. (Add a little water if you are processing only one or two small tomatoes.) Loosely cover the container and place in a warm location, 60-75° F. for about three days. Stir once a day.
A layer of fungus will begin to appear on the top of the mixture after a couple of days. This fungus not only eats the gelatinous coat that surrounds each seed and prevents germination, it also produces antibiotics that help to control seed-borne diseases like bacterial spot, canker and speck.
After three days fill the seed container with warm water. Let the contents settle and begin pouring out the water along with pieces of tomato pulp and immature seeds floating on top. Note: Viable seeds are heavier and settle to the bottom of the jar. Repeat this process until water being poured out is almost clear and clean seeds line the bottom of the container. Pour these clean seeds into a strainer that has holes smaller than the seeds. Let the excess water drip out and invert the strainer onto paper towel or piece of newspaper. Allow the seeds to dry completely (usually a day or two). Break up the clumps into individual seeds, label and store in a packet or plastic bag.
From http://www.thechileman.org
Saving chilli pepper seeds to grow againChile plants are fantastic. These glorious plants produce a fabulous range of chile peppers, which come in a multitude of shapes, sizes, colours, tastes, and heat levels. The chile peppers, if harvested correctly, are a source of viable seed. This seed can be saved, and stored, in order to produce 'free' plants from your favourite varieties for years to come.
This chileman's guide attempts to provide guidance on how to identify the best pods for obtaining viable seed as well as highlighting some of the problems and pitfalls that can affect seed viability and quality.
Before I start, a word of warning. Capsaicin oil, which gives chile's their 'bite', is present in its highest concentrations within the placenta (the membrane of the pods, which hold the seeds in place). Once you get this capsaicin oil on your skin, or in your eyes, it is extremely difficult to remove it. Washing with soap and water tends to spread the oils around and can make the problem worse - especially around the eyes. Trace amounts of the capsaicin oil on the hands, from handling chiles, tends to spread to other parts of your body. Believe me, it will hurt if accidentily rub your eyes (or worse Gentlemen - go to the toilet), with even the smallest trace of capsaicin oil on your fingers!!!
Bearing this in mind, when handling chiles, you might find it helpful to wear a pair of disposable gloves and eye protection. Accidents happen however, and if the worst should happen, try to keep the affected area cool and avoid rubbing it. You could also try applying milk or yogurt (this contains an ingredient, which will slowly counteract the capsaicin oil). Remember that, even though the experience might be intensely painfully, the capsaicin oil does no actual damage to your body. From experience I have found that, after time the oil wears off and loses its effect.
Selecting the pods to obtain viable seedTo ensure the best chances of obtaining viable seed, you must ensure that the pods selected have fully ripened, before harvesting the seed. It may take several months for a pod to mature.
The pod 'sets' to a final colour as it reaches full maturity, and this is the best time to harvest for viable seeds. The final colour is generally red or yellow, but may also be brown, white, pink/orange, orange, or ivory. The pod may also change to other colours whilst maturing. An immature pod is unlikely to provide viable seed.
Thechileman's database is a good source of information for determining the 'mature' pod colour for your variety. Alternatively, it doesn't hurt to wait a few extra weeks and observe. Mature pods will be preserved on the the chile plant, unless damaged, for a period.
Healthy looking pods, whether misshapen or perfectly proportioned, are a source of viable seed. Cracked, discoloured, and insect damaged pods are more likely to become diseased/rotten and should be used as a last resort. However, if not diseased these pods are also a source of viable seed. The current understanding of genetics is that saving seed from an odd misshapen, or undersized, pod will not have any affect on future generations.
Avoid saving seeds from diseased plants, diseased pods, or pods which have softened with rot or are moldy. Some diseases/viruses can be passed down to the next generation in the seed.
A Word on Cross Pollination (Hybridisation)A chile seed (like any other seed) is the mature ovule of a plant. It contains all the genetic material, and stored energy, to grow into a plant (potentially) displaying the same traits as its parent. However, hybridisation (cross-pollination between chile varieties), introduces new and different genetic material and the effects of this hybridisation can be seen in the next, and future, generations. Seeds identified, and sold, as 'F1' hybrids identify first generation hybrids. Avoid saving seeds from these plants since the only predictable characteristic of the second generation is that - you can't predict it!
Almost all known species of chile plants will self-pollinating. However, with the aid of insects, they are also very promiscuous - readily cross pollinating with other species of chile. This cross pollination may result in viable seed. Cross pollination within the same species is almost certain to result in viable, and very vigorous, hybrids.
The following chart identifies the general rule for outcome of cross pollination between the species of the domesticated chile: -
Male/female C. Annuum C. Baccatum C. Chinense C. Frutescens C.Pubescens C. Annuum Prolific Sporadic Prolific Sporadic Not At All C. Baccatum Sporadic Prolific Sporadic Sporadic Not At All C. Chinense Prolific Sporadic Prolific Sporadic Not At All C. Frutescens Sporadic Sporadic Sporadic Prolific Not At All C.Pubescens Not At All Not At All Not At All Not At All Prolific
The most common Capsicum species, Annuum crosses prolifically with Chinense, sporadically with Baccatum and Frutescens but will not cross with Pubescens. Capsicum Pubescens will not generally cross with any other species, so in theory all seeds produced by a Pubescens species in a mixed garden will be 'true' and viable.
If you are planning to save seeds from a chile plant, and wish to it to have the same features as the parent, then you need to ensure: -
- That the donor plant is not itself a hybrid, - That the plant is isolated (specifically the flowers) to prevent wind-borne, or insect-borne, cross pollination.
This is especially important for commercial purposes, where you have the ability to offend all your customers! Not only does uncontrolled hybridization produce unpreditcable characteristics in future generations - it may also produce sterile hybrids, and/or non-viable seeds.
Extracting and drying Chile seeds The proper drying of seeds is essential if you want your seeds to last and ensure future plants are healthy. Excess moisture retained in the seed encourages life and the seeds will either slowly lose nutrients and vigor until they die, or simply rot. Moisture also encourages mold, diseases and fungal infections which might be passed on to the next generation of plants if seeds are not dried sufficiently. Scientific literature on seed saving often quotes that seeds should be dehydrated (dried) until the moisture content is 8% or less. In practical terms, it the seeds are not brittle after drying, they are not dry enough!
Seeds can be either 'air dried' or dried using a dehydrator. Both methods have their advantages and drawbacks although from a practical point of view, the former is the easiest method for the amateur grower and is therefore the one described in most detail here. Further information on drying seeds using a dehydrator can be found here:www.fiery-foods.com/dave/drying.asp
The process of seed saving: -
Step 1 - Selection.Select only ripe healthy pods
Step 2 - Extraction Carefully extract the seeds from the pod and place them on to a piece of kitchen towel. Towel dry the seeds to remove moisture and any debris still attached. Inspect the seeds and discard any which are damaged or discolored at this stage.
Step 3 - Drying like to dry my seeds in labelled polystyrene cups in the airing cupboard for a week or two. Alternatively you can dry seeds on a paper tray somewhere warm (and out of the direct sunlight) and where the kids can't knock them over. Turn the seeds every few days or so to ensure that the bottom layer of the seeds is exposed to the air. Good airflow is important to ensure the seeds dry evenly and prevent damping off.
Step 4 - Testing After a week or so test the seeds for moisture content. As a general rule, if you can bend the seeds they are not dry enough. Dry seed should be fairly brittle and will not dent when you try and bite them.
Storing Seeds The key to the healthy storage of seeds is maintaining a constant temperature and eliminating excess moisture. Seeds stored correctly can maintain their vitality for many years although germination rates tend to fall as time passes. As most Chile seeds look similar, clear labeling is essential. As well as the name of the variety, it is good practice to detail the source of the seed, the date when the seeds were saved and germination success rates (if the batch of seed saved has been used before).
To maintain seed viability, they should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place preferably between 35-50 o F. One preferred method is to store seeds in clearly labelled water tight plastic envelopes in a Tupperware container at the bottom of the fridge. The cool, dark conditions mimic nature as the metabolism of the seeds slows down. Again, ensure seeds are sufficiently dried before storing them in the freezer as excess water/moisture can rupture the cell walls and your seeds will die!
As an alternatively, seeds can be stored in airtight glass containers with an equal amount of a drying agent such as Silica Gel or Rice. Avoid storing seed containers in places, which catch the sun, are near radiators or in areas of high humidity
I n t e r n a t i o n a l S e e d S a v i n g I n s t i t u t e
saving seeds, seed-saving education and permacultureinformation from http://www.seedsave.org/issi/904/beginner.html
These vegetables offer the beginning seed saver the best chance for successful seed saving. They produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of preventing cross-pollination.Bean - Phaseolus vulgaris
PLANT: Although, ideally, different varieties should be separated by 150 feet or another crop flowering at the same time, we rarely observe cross-pollination even when two varieties are grown next to each other.
FLOWER: Beans produce perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Cross pollination by insects is possible but rare as pollination occurs before the flower opens. Because the anthers are pushed up against the stigma, automatic pollination is assured when the anthers open.
SELECTION TRAITS: Most commercial breeders favor bush varieties which can be mechanically harvested and fibrous bean pods which hold up during harvest and shipment. Pole varieties are more suited to small, home gardens because they produce more beans in a smaller space. Because vines are off the ground beans are easier to pick and away from the settling cold air of unexpected frosts. Plant growth: Pole type growth, D; Bush, r. Pod edibility: Little or no fiber, r; Stringless, r . Seed color: White seeded varieties are better for canning because seed color doesn't affect canning liquid, r; Colored, D.Pod, foliage and flower color: Purple, D.
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about six weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.
PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Lettuce - Lactuca sativa
PLANT: Separate varieties flowering at the same time by at least 20 feet to ensure purity.
FLOWER: Lettuce produces perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Each flower produces one seed. Flowers are grouped in little heads of 10-25 flowers all of which open at once for as little as 30 minutes. Anthers are fused together into a little cone that completely surrounds stigma and style. Style is pushed up through anther cone and is coated with its own pollen. Note: Mature head lettuce may need a slit (two or three inches deep) across the top to encourage flowering.
SELECTION TRAITS: Leaf color: red, D. Leaf color is controlled by at least two genes with a number of variations possible. Generally, hybrids produced by crossing red and green varieties result in red offspring. Leaf shape: no lobes, D; oak leaved, r. Seed stalk formation: bolt resistance, r;
Seed color: white seeds, r; black seeds, D.
HARVEST: Some outside leaves can be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Allow seed heads to dry 2-3 weeks after flowering. Individual heads will ripen at different times making the harvest of large amounts of seed at one time nearly impossible. Wait until half the flowers on each plant has gone to seed. Cut entire top of plant and allow to dry upside down in an open paper bag.
PROCESS: Small amounts of seed can be shaken daily from individual flowering heads. Rub with hands to remove remaining seeds. If necessary, separate seeds from chaff with screens.
Peas - Pisum sativum
PLANT: Ideally, different varieties need to be separated 50 feet or with another crop flowering at the same time. However, in the cool regions of the Rocky Moun tains, we rarely observe cross-pollination even when two varieties are grown next to each other.
FLOWER: Peas produce perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Cross-pollination by insects is possible but rare because pollination occurs before the flower opens. Because the stigma does open before pollen is ready crosses theoretically could occur.
SELECTION TRAITS: Most commercial breeders prefer bush varieties with pods that ripen simultaneously in order to facilitate commercial harvesting. Tall varieties produce more peas in small, home gardens.Plant Growth : tall, D; bush, r. Seed Shape: Round seeds germinate better in cold weather, D; w rinkled seeds, r. Pod Edibility: lack of fibers on the inside of the pod, r. Pod shape: round, D; flat, r.
HARVEST: Allow pods to dry brown before harvesting, about four weeks after eating stage. If frost threatens, pull entire plant, root first, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.
PROCESS: Small amounts of pods can be opened by hand. Flail larger amounts. Remove large chaff by hand or fork. Winnow remaining particles.
Pepper - Capsicum annuum
PLANT: Most home gardeners will get satisfactory results if different varieties are separated by 50 feet and another tall, flowering crop. New studies from New Mexico State University show more crossing than was previously thought. We recommend at least 400 feet between varieties to ensure absolute purity.
FLOWER: Peppers produce perfect, mostly self-pollinating flowers. Solitary bees will pollinate if a more desirable pollen is not available in the area.
SELECTION TRAITS: Flavor: Hot, D
HARVEST: Harvest mature, fully-ripe peppers for seed. (Most bell peppers turn red when fully mature.) If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature.
PROCESS: There are two methods, dry and wet, to process pepper seeds. The dry method is adequate for small amounts. Cut the bottom off the fruit and carefully reach in to strip the seeds surrounding central cone. In many cases, seeds need no further cleaning. To process the seed from large amounts of peppers, cut off the tops just under the stem, fill a blender with peppers and water and carefully blend until good seeds are separated and sink to bottom. Pepper debris and immature seeds will float to the top where they can be rinsed away. Spread clean seeds on paper towel and dry in cool location until seed is dry enough to break when folded.
Tomato - Lycopersicon esculentum
PLANT: Separate varieties with short styles (most modern varieties) by at least 10 feet. Varieties with long styles (heirlooms and older varieties) need at least 100 feet to ensure purity. If solitary bees are prevalent, separate all varieties at least 100 feet and place another flowering crop between.
FLOWER: Tomatoes produce perfect, self-pollinating flowers. Anthers are fused together into a little cone that rarely opens until pollen has been shed and the stigma pollinated. (Older varieties with wild tomatoes or L. pimpinellifolium in their genetic ancestry may have stigmas that stick out beyond the cone containing the anthers. Varieties with this trait can be identified by looking closely at mature flowers and need to be treated accordingly.)
SELECTION TRAITS: Tomato is the most popular vegetable in America and hundreds of the genes have been mapped. Those of immediate importance for home gardeners include: Plant size: Determinate varieties, r; b ush varieties, r; dwarf varieties, r. Leaf Shape : Potato-type leaves, r. Disease resistance : Leaf mold resistance, r; fusarium wilt, race 1 and race 2, D; verticillium wilt, D; alternaria, D; tobacco mosaic, D; nematodes, D. Ripening : prevents green shoulders, r; prevents ripening and is found in Longkeeper, r; produces parthenocarpic fruits which do not need to be pollinated. Tomatoes without seeds can be produced in weather too-cold for pollination to take place, r. Fruit color - produced by the combination of flesh and skin colors:
red: pink flesh, r covered by a yellow skin, r
pink: pink flesh, r and colorless skin, r
crimson: bright, purplish-red flesh, r and yellow skin, r
purple: bright, purplish-red flesh, r and colorless skin, r;
yellow: yellowish flesh, r and yellow skin, r
white: yellowish flesh, r and colorless skin, r
orange: reddish-orange flesh, D and yellow skin, r
HARVEST: If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production. Unripe fruits, saved from the first frost, will ripen slowly if kept in a cool, dry location. Seeds from green, unripe fruits will be most viable if extracted after allowing the fruits to turn color.
PROCESS: Cut the tomato into halves at its equator, opening the vertical cavities that contain the seeds. Gently squeeze out from the cavities the jelly-like substance that contains the seeds. If done carefully, the tomato itself can still be eaten or saved for canning, sun-drying or dehydrating.
Place the jelly and seeds into a small jar or glass. (Add a little water if you are processing only one or two small tomatoes.) Loosely cover the container and place in a warm location, 60-75° F. for about three days. Stir once a day.
A layer of fungus will begin to appear on the top of the mixture after a couple of days. This fungus not only eats the gelatinous coat that surrounds each seed and prevents germination, it also produces antibiotics that help to control seed-borne diseases like bacterial spot, canker and speck.
After three days fill the seed container with warm water. Let the contents settle and begin pouring out the water along with pieces of tomato pulp and immature seeds floating on top. Note: Viable seeds are heavier and settle to the bottom of the jar. Repeat this process until water being poured out is almost clear and clean seeds line the bottom of the container. Pour these clean seeds into a strainer that has holes smaller than the seeds. Let the excess water drip out and invert the strainer onto paper towel or piece of newspaper. Allow the seeds to dry completely (usually a day or two). Break up the clumps into individual seeds, label and store in a packet or plastic bag.
From http://www.thechileman.org
Saving chilli pepper seeds to grow againChile plants are fantastic. These glorious plants produce a fabulous range of chile peppers, which come in a multitude of shapes, sizes, colours, tastes, and heat levels. The chile peppers, if harvested correctly, are a source of viable seed. This seed can be saved, and stored, in order to produce 'free' plants from your favourite varieties for years to come.
This chileman's guide attempts to provide guidance on how to identify the best pods for obtaining viable seed as well as highlighting some of the problems and pitfalls that can affect seed viability and quality.
Before I start, a word of warning. Capsaicin oil, which gives chile's their 'bite', is present in its highest concentrations within the placenta (the membrane of the pods, which hold the seeds in place). Once you get this capsaicin oil on your skin, or in your eyes, it is extremely difficult to remove it. Washing with soap and water tends to spread the oils around and can make the problem worse - especially around the eyes. Trace amounts of the capsaicin oil on the hands, from handling chiles, tends to spread to other parts of your body. Believe me, it will hurt if accidentily rub your eyes (or worse Gentlemen - go to the toilet), with even the smallest trace of capsaicin oil on your fingers!!!
Bearing this in mind, when handling chiles, you might find it helpful to wear a pair of disposable gloves and eye protection. Accidents happen however, and if the worst should happen, try to keep the affected area cool and avoid rubbing it. You could also try applying milk or yogurt (this contains an ingredient, which will slowly counteract the capsaicin oil). Remember that, even though the experience might be intensely painfully, the capsaicin oil does no actual damage to your body. From experience I have found that, after time the oil wears off and loses its effect.
Selecting the pods to obtain viable seedTo ensure the best chances of obtaining viable seed, you must ensure that the pods selected have fully ripened, before harvesting the seed. It may take several months for a pod to mature.
The pod 'sets' to a final colour as it reaches full maturity, and this is the best time to harvest for viable seeds. The final colour is generally red or yellow, but may also be brown, white, pink/orange, orange, or ivory. The pod may also change to other colours whilst maturing. An immature pod is unlikely to provide viable seed.
Thechileman's database is a good source of information for determining the 'mature' pod colour for your variety. Alternatively, it doesn't hurt to wait a few extra weeks and observe. Mature pods will be preserved on the the chile plant, unless damaged, for a period.
Healthy looking pods, whether misshapen or perfectly proportioned, are a source of viable seed. Cracked, discoloured, and insect damaged pods are more likely to become diseased/rotten and should be used as a last resort. However, if not diseased these pods are also a source of viable seed. The current understanding of genetics is that saving seed from an odd misshapen, or undersized, pod will not have any affect on future generations.
Avoid saving seeds from diseased plants, diseased pods, or pods which have softened with rot or are moldy. Some diseases/viruses can be passed down to the next generation in the seed.
A Word on Cross Pollination (Hybridisation)A chile seed (like any other seed) is the mature ovule of a plant. It contains all the genetic material, and stored energy, to grow into a plant (potentially) displaying the same traits as its parent. However, hybridisation (cross-pollination between chile varieties), introduces new and different genetic material and the effects of this hybridisation can be seen in the next, and future, generations. Seeds identified, and sold, as 'F1' hybrids identify first generation hybrids. Avoid saving seeds from these plants since the only predictable characteristic of the second generation is that - you can't predict it!
Almost all known species of chile plants will self-pollinating. However, with the aid of insects, they are also very promiscuous - readily cross pollinating with other species of chile. This cross pollination may result in viable seed. Cross pollination within the same species is almost certain to result in viable, and very vigorous, hybrids.
The following chart identifies the general rule for outcome of cross pollination between the species of the domesticated chile: -
Male/female C. Annuum C. Baccatum C. Chinense C. Frutescens C.Pubescens C. Annuum Prolific Sporadic Prolific Sporadic Not At All C. Baccatum Sporadic Prolific Sporadic Sporadic Not At All C. Chinense Prolific Sporadic Prolific Sporadic Not At All C. Frutescens Sporadic Sporadic Sporadic Prolific Not At All C.Pubescens Not At All Not At All Not At All Not At All Prolific
The most common Capsicum species, Annuum crosses prolifically with Chinense, sporadically with Baccatum and Frutescens but will not cross with Pubescens. Capsicum Pubescens will not generally cross with any other species, so in theory all seeds produced by a Pubescens species in a mixed garden will be 'true' and viable.
If you are planning to save seeds from a chile plant, and wish to it to have the same features as the parent, then you need to ensure: -
- That the donor plant is not itself a hybrid, - That the plant is isolated (specifically the flowers) to prevent wind-borne, or insect-borne, cross pollination.
This is especially important for commercial purposes, where you have the ability to offend all your customers! Not only does uncontrolled hybridization produce unpreditcable characteristics in future generations - it may also produce sterile hybrids, and/or non-viable seeds.
Extracting and drying Chile seeds The proper drying of seeds is essential if you want your seeds to last and ensure future plants are healthy. Excess moisture retained in the seed encourages life and the seeds will either slowly lose nutrients and vigor until they die, or simply rot. Moisture also encourages mold, diseases and fungal infections which might be passed on to the next generation of plants if seeds are not dried sufficiently. Scientific literature on seed saving often quotes that seeds should be dehydrated (dried) until the moisture content is 8% or less. In practical terms, it the seeds are not brittle after drying, they are not dry enough!
Seeds can be either 'air dried' or dried using a dehydrator. Both methods have their advantages and drawbacks although from a practical point of view, the former is the easiest method for the amateur grower and is therefore the one described in most detail here. Further information on drying seeds using a dehydrator can be found here:www.fiery-foods.com/dave/drying.asp
The process of seed saving: -
Step 1 - Selection.Select only ripe healthy pods
Step 2 - Extraction Carefully extract the seeds from the pod and place them on to a piece of kitchen towel. Towel dry the seeds to remove moisture and any debris still attached. Inspect the seeds and discard any which are damaged or discolored at this stage.
Step 3 - Drying like to dry my seeds in labelled polystyrene cups in the airing cupboard for a week or two. Alternatively you can dry seeds on a paper tray somewhere warm (and out of the direct sunlight) and where the kids can't knock them over. Turn the seeds every few days or so to ensure that the bottom layer of the seeds is exposed to the air. Good airflow is important to ensure the seeds dry evenly and prevent damping off.
Step 4 - Testing After a week or so test the seeds for moisture content. As a general rule, if you can bend the seeds they are not dry enough. Dry seed should be fairly brittle and will not dent when you try and bite them.
Storing Seeds The key to the healthy storage of seeds is maintaining a constant temperature and eliminating excess moisture. Seeds stored correctly can maintain their vitality for many years although germination rates tend to fall as time passes. As most Chile seeds look similar, clear labeling is essential. As well as the name of the variety, it is good practice to detail the source of the seed, the date when the seeds were saved and germination success rates (if the batch of seed saved has been used before).
To maintain seed viability, they should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place preferably between 35-50 o F. One preferred method is to store seeds in clearly labelled water tight plastic envelopes in a Tupperware container at the bottom of the fridge. The cool, dark conditions mimic nature as the metabolism of the seeds slows down. Again, ensure seeds are sufficiently dried before storing them in the freezer as excess water/moisture can rupture the cell walls and your seeds will die!
As an alternatively, seeds can be stored in airtight glass containers with an equal amount of a drying agent such as Silica Gel or Rice. Avoid storing seed containers in places, which catch the sun, are near radiators or in areas of high humidity
